Patio Screens: The Simple Fix for Privacy, Wind, and Sun Problems

An exposed patio is hard to enjoy. Neighbours can see straight in, the harsh sun drives everyone indoors by midday, and a stiff wind turns a lovely afternoon outside into a battle with flying napkins and upturning umbrellas.

Latticed Wood Screen

Patio screens solve all three problems at once, and they can also mark out a garden, play area, or dining space, without needing to lay a single brick. The main challenge is not whether to add a screen (or not), but which material actually fits your patio and your budget, because the wrong choice not only wastes money but may never even work out quite as expected.

Matching the Material to the Problem

Patio screens fall into a few categories. And each one solves a slightly different problem from the other.

Bamboo

Bamboo is the natural choice for keeping away heat and wind. It cools the space, brings a relaxed, tropical feel, and holds up very well outdoors. 

Canvas

Treated canvas works best where colour and flexibility matter. Roll it down when you need shade, and roll it up when you don't. Canvas comes in many colours, more than you'll find in rigid screens. 

Transparent Screens

Transparent panels suit anyone who wants to block wind without blocking the view, since they cut down gusts of wind while keeping the garden or landscape fully visible.

Aluminium 

Aluminium shutter screens are the sturdiest option. They slide or fold away for an open patio, tilt for light and airflow, and lock securely against intruders, insects, and wind-blown debris. 

Latticed Screens

Lattice and louvre slats work well with patios that need stylish definition, rather than full privacy. Wood or wrought-iron slats, that are arranged in classic or modern patterns, will filter light without making the patio feel enclosed.

Retractable Panels

Retractable screens are the most adaptable, and an all-seasons choice for patios. Motorised versions can be extended for shade, ventilation, and insect protection, then retract at the touch of a button when the weather turns mild. 

Foliage as Patio Screens

Foliage, trained on wireframes or grown as vines, gives a soft, natural screen and often avoids the permit restrictions that taller built screens run into. 

Reed

Reed screens bring a similar warmth through hand-woven, weatherproof panels. They must be treated, to avoid dampness, mildew, and termites. Despite their light look, the material holds up well against sun, rain, and snow, for years.

How to Feel Confident About Your Choice 

The right screen depends on what your patio needs most. Is it privacy, wind protection, shade, or simply a defined, styled edge to the space?

Match your priority to the material and check that it suits your climate and environs. Being clear about the real reason will ensure that your choice will earn its keep for years, rather than sitting as an afterthought.

So, are you ready to plan your patio, garden, and landscape properly, and not just piece by piece? 

Yes? Then this structured outdoor project sketch and workbook will keep every design concept, material decision, budget line, and measurement in one tidy place, so nothing gets lost between inspiration and installation. Use it to turn your outdoor space plans into a place you will really enjoy.

Related Articles 

Ponds, Pools, and Fountains: Upgrade Your Garden or Patio with Beautiful Water Features
Your Complete Guide to Beautiful, Functional Living Spaces

Fixtures or Fittings: What's the Real Difference in Interior Design?

Most homeowners use the words fixtures and fittings interchangeably. They are not the same thing. Knowing the difference matters, especially when buying, selling, renovating, or working with a designer or contractor, since the terms often decide what stays in a property and what the owner can take with them when they move to a new place.

The Difference

A fixture is permanently attached to the structure of a building: fixed to a wall, floor, or ceiling by screws, nails, cement, or glue, and is not meant to be removed.

A fitting is free-standing, hung, or screwed on for convenience, and can be taken down or moved without damaging the structure.

The deciding factor is the method of attachment, not the price or size of the item. For example, a built-in wardrobe is a fixture while a lightweight floor lamp is a fitting.

Examples of Interior Fixtures

Lighting fixtures: ceiling-mounted lights, wall sconces, recessed and cove lighting.

Switches: dimmer, timer, and touch wall switches.

Heat radiators, ceiling fans, fireplaces and surrounds.

Built-in storage systems: wardrobes, cupboards, cabinetry, and shelves.

Staircase railings and balustrades.

Floating wood floors.

Bathtubs, vanity units, water closets, shower enclosures, and Jacuzzis.

Doors: entrance and interior doors.

Curtain rods, rails, blinds, and shades.

Kitchen: built-in cabinets, including island units and breakfast counters.

Examples of Interior Fittings

Paintings, wall art, and mirrors that are hung or screwed on the walls.

Carpets, curtains, and draperies.

Wall-mounted home and office entertainment systems, televisions, and audio-visual equipment.

Free-standing appliances: ovens, refrigerators, washers, and dryers.

Movable furniture: beds, sofas, tables, and consoles.

Portable lighting: table, desk, and floor lamps.

Why Knowing the Difference Matters

A floating laminate floor is a good test case. It is held together only by a simple tongue-and-groove installation method, without glue or nails, yet it still counts as a fixture because it is a permanent part of the home once installed.

The same logic applies to a built-in bookcase versus a free-standing one. The built-in version is a fixture, while the free-standing version is a fitting, even though both of them serve the same purpose.

Here is a simple way to check. Could the item be removed without tools and without leaving a mark on the wall, floor, or ceiling? If yes, it is a fitting. However, if removing it means unscrewing, drilling, or breaking a seal, it is a fixture.

This distinction between the two often arises in home sales, rental agreements, and insurance claims: fixtures are usually included in the sale of a property, whereas fittings are not unless stated otherwise in the contract.

Keep Building Your Home Décor Knowledge

Once you know your fixtures from your fittings, the next step is putting that knowledge to work in your own space. Our guide to interior basics walks through the foundational terms every homeowner should know before starting a project, and if you are planning a renovation, budgeting for home renovations breaks down where fixtures typically eat into a budget versus where fittings offer more flexibility to save.

Article of Interest

Interior Design FAQ: Real Answers to the Questions Homeowners Usually Ask

Peel and Stick Wall Decals That Look Like Expensive Wallpaper

Most people think transforming a wall means painting, papering, stuccoing, or spending lots of money on a decorator. It doesn’t. 

Peel-and-stick wall decals have come a long way, and the best ones genuinely look like something a professional picked out and installed. They go up in minutes, come off without damaging your walls, and cost a fraction of what real wallpaper would. Here are five picks that prove it.

Cherry Blossom Branch Decals

This is the one that stops people in their tracks. A large-scale nature scene with delicate cherry blossom branches, colourful birds, and hanging birdcages applied directly to your wall looks like a hand-painted mural. The kind you’d see in a boutique hotel lobby, or a carefully styled sitting room. It is self-adhesive, easy to reposition, and costs nowhere near what a mural artist would charge.

Boho Gold Leaf Decals

Rich dark tones with gold botanical detailing. When these are applied to a feature wall, most people assume it’s expensive wallpaper. The gold leaf styling gives it that luxurious, high-end feel that works especially well in a bedroom or dining area. If you want one decal that makes the biggest visual impact, this is the one.

Large Winter Tree Decals

These dramatic bare-branch tree decals create an incredible atmosphere, especially styled alongside a fireplace or a reading corner. The large scale is what makes them work. Small decals add a touch; large ones transform the entire mood of a room. This set does exactly that, and can be up in minutes.

Terracotta Double Arch Decals

Arched shapes are one of the biggest trends in interior design right now, and this set brings that look to any plain wall, without any builder's work. The warm terracotta tones work beautifully behind a desk, a bed, or a sofa. It gives the impression of an architectural detail, the kind that looks like it was always part of the room.

Wildflower Botanical Stickers

These neutral, meadow-inspired wildflower decals look like hand-painted wallpaper. The soft, organic shapes and muted tones make them incredibly versatile. They work in bathrooms, bedrooms, hallways, and nurseries. Up close, they look artisan, and from across the room, they look like wallpaper that costs a lot of money.

The Rule That Makes Them Work

The difference between a decal that looks cheap and one that looks expensive usually boils down to placement and scale. Choose a single focal wall rather than covering the four walls of the room. Pick a style or theme that matches your room’s existing colours and mood. Do those three things and almost any quality decal will look intentional and considered.

See All the Picks

I’ve curated the full collection, including every decal mentioned here plus framed printable art options, in one easy browsing list.

Browse the full Wall Art & Decals list on Benable

5 Home Decor Pieces That Look Designer But Cost Almost Nothing

You’ve walked into someone’s home and thought, “How does it look so put-together?” Chances are, it wasn’t money. It was placing the right pieces in the right places, and the good news is you can do the same thing, get the same effect, and spend very little doing it.

 

Here are 5 home decor pieces that look far more expensive than they are.

 

1. A Sculptural Table Lamp

Lighting is the fastest way to make a room feel designed. A lamp with an interesting shape (think hand-painted glass, terrazzo, or a carved base) adds warmth and a creative touch that feels intentional. It is the kind of piece that makes guests ask, “Where did you get that?” You can find stunning options on Wayfair for under $60. One standout pick is on my Benable list: a hand-painted aqua & cream teardrop lamp with a gold base that looks like it belongs in a boutique hotel.

 

2. A Statement Decorative Mirror

A good mirror does three things at the same time. It adds light, makes a room feel bigger, and acts as wall art. An organically shaped mirror in mango wood, or a round mirror with a scalloped walnut frame, gives you that designer-curated look for a fraction of what you’d pay in a home store. Hang it above a console, a dresser, or a sofa, and watch the whole room shift in aesthetics.

 

3. A Decorative Cushion Cover in Velvet or Embroidery

This is the easiest swap you can make. Pull off your plain cushion covers and replace them with velvet, embroidered, or printed ones. Your sofa will instantly look completely different.

• Rich jewel tones
• Forest green
• Burgundy
• Teal

These are colours that instantly add depth. An embroidered floral design on natural cotton looks artisan and considered. You’re spending a few pounds on a cover, but the result looks like you spent a lot more.

 

4. A Vintage-Style Decorative Mirror

Yes, mirrors get two spots on this list because they are that good. A small oval antique gold mirror, handcrafted using a traditional sand-casting method, looks like a genuine flea-market find. It brings character, texture, and old-world charm to a gallery wall or over a small entryway shelf. Pieces like this are what make a home feel curated rather than just furnished.

 

5. A Bold Printed Cushion Cover

A maximalist cushion, like a peacock print on velvet with fringe trim, or a painterly horse design in cobalt blue, works as a statement piece all on its own. You don’t need to redecorate. You only need one cushion that draws the eye and changes the energy of the room. That’s what designers do. They pick one bold thing and let everything else stay calm around it.

 

Where to Find All Five

I’ve pulled together my favorite picks for each of these in one place. You can browse the full list, including specific product links, right here: Home Decor Items That Look Expensive But Aren’t (one of my Benable lists). Every piece was chosen because it genuinely looks more expensive than it is.

 

Articles of interest:

Building Your First Home? Plan Ahead with This Free Simple Budget Planner Tool

7 Ways to Change Your Living Room from Drab to Uplifting

How Decorative Accents Transform Rooms, Without Changing Furniture

What Kind of Home Upgrade Project Do You Really Need? (Take the Quiz)

You notice something is off about a room. Maybe it feels dated, or cluttered, or just not-quite-right, but you can’t put your finger on what it is, or what needs to be changed. That uncertainty is where most home upgrade or renovation projects go wrong before they even begin.

The most common mistake homeowners make is jumping straight to solutions. Browsing sofas online, picking paint colours, filling carts with whatnots, before identifying what kind of work they need to do.

A room that feels tired doesn’t have the same problem as a room that does not function efficiently. A silently frustrating interior layout is not solved by buying new throw cushions or changing the window blinds.

To get on the right track, use the free interactive tool below to find out exactly what kind of interior work you need done. Answer five quick questions, and you will get a clarified project type, a realistic budget range, and a plain checklist of what your project involves. So, stop guessing and start with a clear picture.

There are six possible outcomes, ranging from a simple Soft Refresh to a Full Room Renovation. Most users land somewhere in the middle, and that result alone is often enough to shift how they approach the interior upgrade, room enhancement, or total renovation project.

To use this tool, there is no sign-up, no email address required, and nothing to download. Just answer the questions and get your result in a couple of minutes.

Simple Interior Concepts — Free Tool

What Kind of Home Project Do You Actually Have?

Before you open a paint tin or start pinning furniture, take two minutes to answer a few simple questions. You'll get a clear project type, a checklist of what you actually need, and a realistic budget range — so you can stop guessing and start planning.

1

Answer 5 quick questions

2

Get your project type

3

See exactly what's involved

Question 1 of 5

Which best describes what's bothering you about your space right now?

Go with your gut — there's no wrong answer here.

Question 2 of 5

How would you describe your current colour scheme?

Think walls, soft furnishings, accessories.

Question 2 of 5

Is your furniture staying, or are you open to replacing it?

Be honest — budget matters here.

Question 2 of 5

Will any of this work need a tradesperson or contractor?

Anything involving plumbing, electrics, or fitting counts as yes.

Question 2 of 5

Does your vision involve changing anything structural?

Think walls, flooring, fitted furniture, lighting positions.

Question 3 of 5

Are you willing to repaint walls to make the change?

Paint is one of the most cost-effective transformations in any room.

Question 3 of 5

How much would you estimate you've spent on accessories in the past — and are you happy to replace most of them?

Replacing accessories is often less expensive than people think.

Question 3 of 5

Have you ever tried moving your furniture around to test a new layout?

Sometimes the fix is simpler than you think.

Question 3 of 5

Are you replacing one or two key pieces, or starting the whole room again?

This makes a big difference to both budget and planning time.

Question 3 of 5

Are you confident doing the work yourself?

Honestly — some projects are straightforward, others really aren't.

Question 3 of 5

Is this work confined to one room, or does it affect multiple areas?

Multi-room work with trades involved is a significant project.

Question 3 of 5

Do you have a style direction in mind, or are you still figuring that out?

Both are completely fine — they just mean different starting points.

Question 3 of 5

Will you be living in the space while the work is carried out?

This affects planning significantly — especially with tradespeople involved.

Question 4 of 5

What's your approximate budget for this project?

Be realistic — it helps you get a more useful result.

Question 4 of 5

What's your approximate budget for this project?

Be realistic — it helps you get a more useful result.

Question 4 of 5

What's your approximate budget for this project?

Larger projects have wider budget ranges — this helps narrow things down.

🌿 Your Project Type

A Soft Refresh

"It doesn't need tearing apart — it needs editing."

Your room has a good foundation. What it needs is a focused edit: updating the accessories, introducing a better colour palette, or adding a few well-chosen pieces that give the space a sense of intention. This is one of the most satisfying types of project because the results feel immediate and the process is low-stress.

What this project typically involves

• New cushions, throws, and soft furnishings in a coherent palette
• Updated lighting — a new lamp changes a room dramatically
• Swapping out or adding artwork and mirrors
• Introducing plants or natural textures
• Possibly a fresh coat of paint on one wall or all four
• Editing out clutter and pieces that no longer fit the look

💷

Typical Budget Range £200 – £1,500 / $250 – $1,800

Simple Tip Start with a colour palette of three tones and only buy accessories that fit within it. Impulse purchases from different colour families are what make rooms look disjointed — and that's usually the real problem, not the room itself.

🎨 Your Project Type

A Style Refresh

"You know what you have — now you need a clear direction."

You have the basics in place and a reasonable budget to work with, but the room lacks a coherent identity. A Style Refresh means deciding on a clear aesthetic direction — whether that's calm and neutral, warm and layered, or bold and graphic — and then aligning everything in the room to that vision. Paint, accessories, and one or two new pieces will take you a long way.

What this project typically involves

• Choosing a defined design style or mood as your anchor
• Repainting walls (often the single biggest transformation)
• Replacing accessories that don't fit the new direction
• Possibly one new statement piece — a rug, a light fitting, or artwork
• Reviewing and editing furniture arrangement for better flow
• Creating a simple mood board before you buy anything

💷

Typical Budget Range £800 – £3,000 / $1,000 – $3,600

Simple Tip Choose your paint colour last, not first. Build a mood board of furniture and accessories you love, then find a paint colour that ties them together. Most people do it the other way round and end up with a room that fights itself.

📐 Your Project Type

A Space Rethink

"The room isn't the problem — the layout is."

Your issue is spatial, not stylistic. The furniture you have might be perfectly good, but the way the room is arranged is stopping it from functioning the way you want. A Space Rethink focuses on traffic flow, focal points, and how people move through and use the room — before any money is spent on new things.

What this project typically involves

• Drawing a rough floor plan and noting traffic routes
• Identifying the room's natural focal point (window, fireplace, TV wall)
• Experimenting with furniture placement — on paper first
• Considering whether the room is being used for the right purpose
• Possibly removing one or two pieces that are taking up space without earning it
• Reviewing lighting — a poorly lit layout always feels wrong

💷

Typical Budget Range £0 – £2,000 / $0 – $2,500

Simple Tip Before moving a single piece of furniture, tape out the room on the floor with masking tape and mark where each item currently sits. Then try a new arrangement on paper. Moving heavy furniture twice is exhausting — a little planning saves a lot of effort.

🛋️ Your Project Type

A Full Redecoration

"You're not just refreshing — you're starting the room over."

This is a proper project. You're looking at new furniture, new finishes, and a completely reconsidered room. No structural work is involved, but everything that sits within the room — the colour scheme, the furniture, the layout, the lighting, and the accessories — is up for review. Done well, a full redecoration transforms a home. Done without a plan, it becomes expensive and overwhelming.

What this project typically involves

• A detailed brief or mood board before any purchasing begins
• A clear budget broken down by category (furniture, paint, lighting, soft furnishings)
• A floor plan with scaled furniture to avoid costly mistakes
• A phased shopping list — not everything at once
• Decisions on paint, flooring finish, and window treatments early
• Patience — good rooms take time to come together

💷

Typical Budget Range £3,000 – £10,000 / $3,600 – $12,000

Simple Tip Set aside 10–15% of your total budget as a contingency before you start spending. There is always something you didn't account for — a longer lead time on a sofa, a lamp that doesn't work in the space, a paint colour that reads completely differently on the wall. The contingency saves you from having to compromise on the final 20% of the room.

🔨 Your Project Type

A Partial Renovation

"You're changing the fabric of the room, not just what's in it."

A Partial Renovation means altering the room itself — new flooring, a new fitted kitchen or bathroom, a built-in wardrobe, replastered walls, or repositioned lighting. Tradespeople are involved. This is where most homeowners underestimate both cost and time, and where having a clear specification before any work starts becomes genuinely important.

What this project typically involves

• Getting two or three quotes from tradespeople before committing
• A written specification of what work is included — and what isn't
• Deciding on all materials and finishes before work begins (not during)
• A realistic timeline with buffer for delays
• A contingency budget of at least 15–20%
• A decoration plan for after the trades have finished

💷

Typical Budget Range £5,000 – £20,000 / $6,000 – $24,000

Simple Tip Never make decisions under pressure on site. Tradespeople often ask about materials, finishes, or changes when they're already in the middle of the work. Have everything decided and ordered in advance wherever possible — decisions made quickly on site are almost always the ones you regret.

🏗️ Your Project Type

A Full Room Renovation

"This is a significant project — and it deserves a proper plan."

You are undertaking a full renovation: structural changes, multiple tradespeople, significant budget, and a timeline that will stretch beyond what most people anticipate. This type of project is incredibly rewarding when managed well — and deeply stressful when it isn't. The single biggest predictor of a successful renovation is how thoroughly it was planned before anyone picked up a tool.

What this project typically involves

• A full brief covering every room or area affected
• Architectural drawings if walls or structure are involved
• A main contractor or a carefully coordinated set of trades
• All materials, finishes, and fittings specified before work begins
• A contingency budget of no less than 20%
• A realistic timeline — and then adding four to six weeks to it
• A decoration and furnishing plan ready to implement once work is complete

💷

Typical Budget Range £15,000+ / $18,000+

Simple Tip Consider whether your project scope warrants bringing in an interior designer, even if only for the planning phase. The cost of a few hours of professional advice is almost always recovered in avoided mistakes, better trade relationships, and a more coherent end result. Many designers offer a one-off consultation for exactly this stage.

Not sure where to go next?

Whichever project type you landed on, the principles stay the same: plan before you spend, set a realistic budget with contingency built in, and make all decisions on paper before anything goes in a basket or gets painted on a wall.

Simple Interior Concepts covers every stage of the home decorating journey — from finding your style to managing a full room overhaul — in plain, practical language designed for real homes and real budgets.

Simple Interior Concepts · simpleinteriorconcepts.blogspot.com

Once you know your project type, you will find posts across this blog, Simple Interior Concepts, that speak directly to your situation, from finding your decorating style to managing tradespeople, working out a realistic budget, hanging curtains the right way, choosing colour palettes, and making a small room feel bigger.

Start with what the tool tells you and then go from there. And if you want to try other options, just click the "START AGAIN" button to return to the beginning.

Article of interest:

Your Complete Guide to Beautiful, Functional Living Spaces

Building Your First Home? Plan Ahead With This Free Simple Budget Planner Tool

The Only DIY Area Rug Cleaning Guide You’ll Ever Need

Most people only notice their area rug when something goes wrong. A stain, a strange smell, fibres that won't lie flat. By then, the rug has usually been neglected for months. A little routine care changes that completely. This guide walks you through exactly how to clean your area rug at home, whatever the material, without damaging it.

Seven Steps. Do Them in Order

1. Know your rug material before you do anything.

Wool and silk need cold water and a gentle detergent. Synthetics like polyester and nylon can handle a little more. Getting this wrong is the fastest way to cause permanent damage, so check the label or look up the rug before you start.

2. Vacuum both sides first.

Flip the rug over and vacuum the back before you touch the front. This dislodges embedded dirt and grit, so they fall away rather than being pushed deeper into the fibres when water is applied. Then vacuum the front.

3. Test for colourfastness.

Find a hidden corner, dab it with your cleaning solution, and blot with a white cloth. If any colour transfers, put the cleaning supplies away and call a professional. Some rugs are not safe to clean with water at home.

4. Use the right cleaning solution.

A small amount of mild dish soap diluted in cold water works for most rugs, but a dedicated rug shampoo is even better. Avoid bleach, hot water, and anything with a high alkaline content, particularly on wool.

5. Scrub with the pile, not against it!

The fibres in your rug lie in one direction. Work your soft brush along that direction, never against it. Scrubbing the wrong way causes fuzzing, pulls fibres out of place, and leaves the rug looking worn.

6. Rinse until the water runs clear.

Soap residue left in the fibres is one of the main reasons rugs get dirty again quickly. Rinse thoroughly, then rinse again. The water coming off the rug should be completely clear before you stop.

7. Dry flat, and completely too.

Never put a damp rug back down on the floor. Lay it flat where there is good airflow, or better still, hang it over a railing. A rug that is even slightly damp when returned to a hard floor will develop mildew within a day or two. And on carpet, it develops even faster. Give it the full drying time it needs.

Clean and Smelling Fresh 

Follow these steps and your rug will come out clean, undamaged, and smelling fresh without those professional cleaning bills.

Taking Your Home Upkeep Further

Cleaning your rug is one task. But if you are working through a broader home refresh or renovation, such as new flooring, a repainted room, or furniture you want to rearrange, keeping track of every decision, colour choice, and supplier in one place saves you hours of frustration later.

The Mood Pages for Home Improvement Projects is a planner and visual presentation book designed for exactly that. It gives you dedicated space to map out each room project, record your materials, and keep your renovation ideas organised from start to finish.

Get your copy on Amazon

Related

How to Clean Honeycomb Window Blinds

How to Clean Bamboo Window Shades

How to Clean Bamboo Wood Floors the Right Way (Without Ruining Them)

Wall Paint Techniques That Transform Any Room (And Which Ones You Can DIY)

Your walls are the largest canvas in your home, but most homeowners never do anything interesting with them.

Yes, a fresh coat of paint is fine, but if you want a room that genuinely turns your guests' heads, you need to know about special paint finishes and when it’s best to bring in a professional painter or interior decorator to get the job done right.

This guide covers everything from basic interior painting tips to four showstopping techniques you can attempt yourself, or hand over to the experts.

What Painters and Decorators Actually Do

Painters and decorators work across a wide range of residential and commercial projects. For residential projects, that means applying paints, stains, varnishes, and wall coverings to interior and exterior surfaces. 

And for commercial and industrial projects (high-rise buildings, bridges, and warehouses), it means applying specialised finishes: weather-resistant coatings, anti-corrosive paints, and intumescent (fire-retardant) finishes designed to protect structures rather than simply decorate. For homeowners, the focus is almost always on interior painting.

 

Painting vs Decorating: What’s the Difference?

These two terms often get used interchangeably, but actually, they aren’t the same thing.

Interior painting refers to the application of paint and stain to walls, ceilings, and surfaces. It is one component of a broader process.

On the other hand, interior decorating is the complete visual styling of a space by selecting colour schemes, sourcing furniture and furnishings, choosing window treatments, hanging wall art, and specifying lighting. Painting is just one aspect in a decorator’s kit.

Many homeowners are natural decorators. They have an instinct for what looks good and how to pull a room together, but others find it quite overwhelming.

And yes, painters can also be decorators because, after all, it’s a core part of interior decoration. But decorators are not typically painters. They only specify the paint finishes and colours, then contract the application work out to professional painters.

 

Can You DIY Interior Painting?

If it’s for standard wall and ceiling painting, yes, most homeowners can do a competent job with the right preparation and tools. The only thing that can hold them back is usually time, uncertainty, or the fear of making a costly mistake.

But special paint finishes are a different matter. Some can be DIY’d with patience and practice, but others, particularly metal leaf gilding, are painstaking enough that most people are better off calling in a professional.

Before you attempt any special finish, the condition of your walls matters. Fresh, uncoated walls, previously wallpapered surfaces, and walls that have been repainted many times all require different preparation. Skipping preparation work is the most common reason decorative finishes fail.

 

Choosing Your Wall Finish: Start Here

Not sure which direction to go? Then consider the following before you pick up a brush to paint:

• What mood do you want to create in the room?
• What’s your preferred colour palette?
• Do you want a unified colour scheme throughout the space or a statement feature wall?
• Are you drawn to flat, smooth finishes, or do you prefer something with texture and dimension?

Most special paint effects work best when applied to a single feature wall. It can be your living room focal point, a bedroom headboard wall, or an entrance foyer. Going all-in on four walls is an overkill that can overwhelm any interior space.

Special Paint Techniques Worth Knowing

1. Wall Antiquing

Difficulty: Beginner to Intermediate.

DIY-friendly: Yes.

Wall antiquing creates the illusion of aged, worn plaster that’s streaky, mottled, chipped, or softly textured.

It suits eclectic interiors where the old and new work comfortably together. It works particularly well as a feature wall finish.

The basic application involves painting a thin, translucent film of colour over a light neutral base. Pigments from brown earth-tone palettes like raw umber and burnt umber give the most convincing aged effect. A second method involves using a smooth glaze applied with a large brush, followed by stippling random areas with a coarse brush (or spray gun) while the glaze is still wet.

Materials required:

• Two or three shades of water-based flat-finish paint (a few shades apart from each other. More contrast creates a more mottled effect)
• Paint rollers
• Brushes
• Paint trays
• A large sea sponge
• Rubber gloves
• Drop cloth
• Painters tape
• How to apply:
• Tape off baseboards, trims, mouldings, and electrical outlets.
• Protect your floor with drop cloths.
• Practice on a spare piece of drywall or board first.

Apply the lightest colour first with a roller. It doesn’t need to be perfect. Use an angled brush for edges and corners. Once it’s dry, apply the mid-tone in uneven vertical strokes using a coarser brush or sponge. Once that is dry, dab the darkest shade irregularly on the surface with the sea sponge.

*Tips:

1. Work in up-and-down strokes and dabs.
2. For a more weathered look, repeat the process left-to-right and let more of the base coat show through.
3. Glazing each coat before applying the next one creates translucency and builds depth.
4. Keep your colour choices on the lighter side for your first attempt (it’s easier to add depth than to pull it back).

2. Wall Stamping

Difficulty: Beginner

DIY-friendly: Yes

Wall stamping is a stylish and more affordable alternative to wallpaper. It involves pressing shaped foam stamps loaded with paint onto your wall in repeated or random patterns. The result can look modern and abstract, or traditional and classic, depending entirely on the shapes and colours you choose.

Simple, repeatable geometric shapes such as squares, diamonds, circles, and hexagons are the easiest to work with. You can either cut your own from craft foam using a straight edge or buy pre-made pattern templates.

What you need:

• Coordinating acrylic paints up to four colours (anything more than four will look chaotic)
• Clear acrylic glaze.
• 3/8-inch-thick craft foam (roughly 8” x 10” pieces)
• A straight edge
• Scissors (or a utility knife)
• Plastic plates (one for each colour)
• Sponge brushes
• A level
• Latex gloves
• Paper towels

How to apply (Plan your pattern before you begin):

For a grid design, lightly pencil your grid lines onto the wall using a level and straight edge.

• Cut your shapes cleanly.
• Pour roughly 3 tablespoons of paint onto each plate, add a tablespoon of mixing glaze, and combine with a sponge brush.
• Brush the mixture onto one face of each foam shape, with all strokes running in the same direction.
• Press each stamp firmly onto the wall, ensuring full contact across the surface.
• Mop up any excess paint off the foam with a damp paper towel between applications.

Tips:

1. Draw light guidelines every 30–45 cm on the wall to keep your grid consistent.
2. Practice on a piece of poster board before moving to the wall.
3. For a more abstract effect, apply different shapes in a deliberate but freeform arrangement. Overlapping and layering will add visual interest.

3. Metal Leaf (Gilding)

Difficulty: Advanced

DIY-friendly: With care

Gilding is the application of ultra-thin sheets of metal leaf, gold, silver, copper, bronze, or aluminium, to a wall surface. The result is a luminous, regal, and genuinely breathtaking finish, especially in candlelight. A gilded feature wall needs no further decoration because it is the decoration.

Gilding is one of the most impressive wall finishes that’s not much harder to apply than wallpaper. But gold leaf is far more delicate, and the process is unforgiving of shortcuts. If you’re not confident about trying this out, it’s best left to a professional.

What you need:

• Tack cloth
• Shop cloth
• 120-grit sandpaper
• Drywall filler
• Craft sticks
• Painter’s tape
• A water-based primer
• An extendable roller
• A short-nap roller
• Squirrel mop gilding brush
• Eggshell latex paint
• Metal leaf adhesive (water-based is best for DIY)
• A water-based varnish.

How to apply:

• Wash the wall gently with diluted washing-up liquid and water.
• Allow it to dry completely.
• Sand down any uneven areas and old paint bumps, then wipe with a tack cloth.
• Fill cracks with drywall filler. Once it’s dry, sand-smooth it and wipe clean.
• Tape off ceiling edges, trims, and baseboards.
• Apply two coats of water-based primer with at least 4 hours’ drying time between coats (6 hours if conditions are damp or humid).
• Apply two coats of eggshell latex paint. Allow the second coat to dry overnight.
• The following day, begin at one end of the wall at the ceiling line. Press a strip of metal leaf onto the surface and go over the paper backing with the squirrel mop brush to eliminate air bubbles. Ensure it sticks.
• Peel off the backing and brush it gently to allow it to flatten. Continue the process strip by strip, until the entire wall is covered. Seal with water-based varnish applied with the short-nap roller and leave overnight to dry well.

*Tips:

1. Water-based adhesive is the better choice for DIY as it dries more slowly and gives you time to work carefully.
2. If you opt for gold leaf adhesive, work quickly in long strips from ceiling to baseboard. Never apply metal leaf in an unventilated room.
3. Varnish is non-negotiable because it significantly protects the finish and extends its lifespan.

4. Faux Marble

Difficulty: Intermediate

DIY-friendly: Yes, but with practice.

Real marble is not only expensive, but it is also heavy and permanent. Faux marble paint gives you a remarkably convincing version of it at a fraction of the cost, and you can tailor the look to any marble variety of your choice.

The easiest starting point (and the most popular) is classic white marble with grey and black veining.

Faux marble adds texture, depth, and an unmistakably high-end quality to a room. It immediately transforms a feature wall into a genuine focal point for the room.

What you need:

• Two shades of latex paint (lighter and darker, with the darker shade acting as a base coat)
• 3/8-inch paint rollers
• Roller trays
• A large sea sponge
• A large feather
• Polyacrylic gloss topcoat
• Foam plate
• Shop cloths
• Painter’s tape
• A paint stir stick
• Drop cloths
• Joint filler
• A putty knife
• Hand sander
• Fine-grit sandpaper

For a subtle veining finish, choose colours two or three shades apart on the same colour chart and for a bold, dramatic veining, choose colours from different colour strips entirely.

How to apply:

First, protect your floor with drop cloths and tape all trims, mouldings, and baseboards.

• Repair any cracks or holes with joint compound filler and sand flush once dry.
• Apply the base coat with a roller and allow it to dry.
• Apply a second coat for a smooth, even base and allow it to dry.
• Using the feather dipped in your second colour, run random vein lines across the wall surface. Repeat the process until you are satisfied with the vein coverage.
• Allow to dry.
• Mix equal parts of the base coat paint and polyacrylic gloss on a foam plate. Dip a damp sea sponge into the mixture and dab lightly over the vein marks.
• Allow this to dry for ten minutes.
• Roll a dry cloth into a ball and lightly blot the entire surface to blend the colours.
• Leave for one hour.
• You can add additional veining if desired, but allow two more hours of drying time.
• Apply the polyacrylic satin topcoat with a roller using long vertical strokes and allow it to dry for two hours. 
• Using a hand sander with fine-grit sandpaper, buff the wall in gentle circular motions to reduce streaking. 
• Wipe away sanding residue and repeat for a total of three topcoats. 
• Allow the final coat to dry for approximately three hours.

*Tips:

1. Always wear a sanding mask when buffing the topcoat.
2. Practice on a sample board before touching the wall.
3. Use the darker paint as a base for subtler, softer veining.
4. Use the lighter paint as a base for bolder, more dramatic veining.

When to Call a Professional

Special paint effects are achievable as DIY projects, but the wall condition is the most important thing of all. No technique will look good when the surfaces are poorly prepared. If your walls are heavily textured, wallpapered, or have been repainted many times without stripping, you may face significant preparation work before any decorative finish can be applied.

Hire a professional if:

• Your walls need extensive repair before painting.
• You want gilding or metal leaf on a large surface area.
• You are attempting a technique for the first time on a prominent feature wall.
• You want a guaranteed result rather than a learning experience.

Hiring a decorator is less expensive than most people assume. What drives the cost up are the products and finishes chosen, and not the labour costs.

 

The Difference Between an Awesome Room and a Bland One

The difference between a forgettable room and one people talk about is often just one wall. Special paint effects, whether the warmth of antiquing, the precision of stamping, the drama of gilding, or the sophistication of faux marble, are within reach of most homeowners. With patience, a little preparation, and the right tools, an awesome, inviting room can be created.

Remember this: choose colours that complement both the ceiling and the entire space. Since there is no single right answer on how best to choose, make your gut instinct a legitimate tool. And when in doubt, start with a feature wall. One wall done brilliantly beats four walls done the typical way.

Browse more posts in Design Concepts for more painting and decorating ideas.

Browse more posts in Home Improvement for more home improvement ideas.

(Article originally published at hubpages.com on 0/09/10)

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