The 15% Rule: The Designer Secret to a More Stylish Home

Professional interior decorators don't guess. They work with principles, tested rules that make rooms feel intentional rather than accidental. The 15% rule is one of the most useful of those principles, and once you understand it, you will see it everywhere. Here is what it is and how to apply it in your own home.

Notice the single vintage leopard-print ottoman in front of the blue sofa.

What the 15% Rule Means

Think of a room that is beautifully composed: dark wood, leather, rich paint, modern bookshelves. Now picture a leopard-print stool sitting in the middle of it. That stool is the 15%. It is the thing that makes you look twice and think that someone with a unique point of view put this room together.

The rule is not about introducing oddities but about avoiding the look of a room so perfectly laid out that it feels like a showroom. When every element matches without a surprise, the space loses warmth. It looks perfectly designed, rather than lived in. The 15% is the human element. It is what makes a home feel like it belongs to someone and not just for display.

Why Interior Designers Swear By It

Professional designers understand that contrast creates interest. The eye needs somewhere to land, something to question, a moment of visual tension before it can fully relax into the rest of the room.

A room styled entirely within its own logic gives the eye nothing to do. The 15% gives it a small puzzle to solve, and that puzzle is exactly what makes a space memorable.

This is why:

• Antiques work so well in contemporary interiors.
• Rough raw materials sit beautifully against polished surfaces.
• A bold pattern on an accent chair can liven an otherwise neutral room from feeling anonymous.

How to Apply this Concept in Your Home

You do not need a large budget or a designer’s eye to use this rule. All you need is one deliberate choice that stands out from whatever theme your room is created around.

If your living room is neutral and soft, the 15% might be a richly patterned cushion, a single piece of boldly coloured wall art, or a side table in a material that does not match anything else. 

If your bedroom is maximalist and layered, the 15% might be a single clean, bare wall that gives the eye a moment to breathe.

The keyword is “deliberate”. The 15% should feel intentional and not as an afterthought. There is a clear difference between a room that is slightly chaotic and a room that has one carefully placed element of surprise.

A Few Simple Starting Points

1. Swap one soft furnishing, a cushion, a throw, or a lampshade for something in a colour or pattern that you would never normally consider “safe” for that room.

2. Introduce one piece from a different era. It can be a vintage find in a modern space, or a sleek contemporary lamp in a room full of traditional furniture, that creates exactly the kind of feel the rule calls for.

3. Use scale unexpectedly. For example, an oversized mirror, an unusually large piece of art, or a very small accent piece in an otherwise grand setting all qualify as that 15% disruption.

4. Introduce a material that does not appear anywhere else: rattan, natural stone, hammered metal, or aged brass, against a scheme built entirely on painted surfaces and soft fabric.

The Bigger Idea Behind the Rule

The rule is about confidence. It takes a certain boldness to put something in a room that does not obviously belong there and trust that it will work. That is precisely the quality that separates spaces that feel designed by a professional from spaces that feel assembled from a mood board.

The rooms you remember, the ones that stop you flipping through a magazine, or stay with you after a house visit, always possess that element. You might not be able to name it immediately. But you will feel it.

Start with 15%. That's what it takes to create a signature style.

Work Like a Decorator

Applying design principles like this one becomes much easier when you have a dedicated space to plan, record, and refine your ideas. Professional decorators and home stylists keep notebooks for exactly this reason, not as a luxury, but as a working tool.

The Decorator's Notebook for Interior Decorators and Home Stylists gives you structured space to do that. It is designed for decorators and stylists working in the building industry, but it works equally well for serious homeowners who want to approach their interiors with the same level of intention.

Get your copy on Amazon

Wall Paint Techniques That Transform Any Room (And Which Ones You Can DIY)

Your walls are the largest canvas in your home, but most homeowners never do anything interesting with them.

Yes, a fresh coat of paint is fine, but if you want a room that genuinely turns your guests' heads, you need to know about special paint finishes and when it’s best to bring in a professional painter or interior decorator to get the job done right.

This guide covers everything from basic interior painting tips to four showstopping techniques you can attempt yourself, or hand over to the experts.

What Painters and Decorators Actually Do

Painters and decorators work across a wide range of residential and commercial projects. For residential projects, that means applying paints, stains, varnishes, and wall coverings to interior and exterior surfaces. 

And for commercial and industrial projects (high-rise buildings, bridges, and warehouses), it means applying specialised finishes: weather-resistant coatings, anti-corrosive paints, and intumescent (fire-retardant) finishes designed to protect structures rather than simply decorate. For homeowners, the focus is almost always on interior painting.

 

Painting vs Decorating: What’s the Difference?

These two terms often get used interchangeably, but actually, they aren’t the same thing.

Interior painting refers to the application of paint and stain to walls, ceilings, and surfaces. It is one component of a broader process.

On the other hand, interior decorating is the complete visual styling of a space by selecting colour schemes, sourcing furniture and furnishings, choosing window treatments, hanging wall art, and specifying lighting. Painting is just one aspect in a decorator’s kit.

Many homeowners are natural decorators. They have an instinct for what looks good and how to pull a room together, but others find it quite overwhelming.

And yes, painters can also be decorators because, after all, it’s a core part of interior decoration. But decorators are not typically painters. They only specify the paint finishes and colours, then contract the application work out to professional painters.

 

Can You DIY Interior Painting?

If it’s for standard wall and ceiling painting, yes, most homeowners can do a competent job with the right preparation and tools. The only thing that can hold them back is usually time, uncertainty, or the fear of making a costly mistake.

But special paint finishes are a different matter. Some can be DIY’d with patience and practice, but others, particularly metal leaf gilding, are painstaking enough that most people are better off calling in a professional.

Before you attempt any special finish, the condition of your walls matters. Fresh, uncoated walls, previously wallpapered surfaces, and walls that have been repainted many times all require different preparation. Skipping preparation work is the most common reason decorative finishes fail.

 

Choosing Your Wall Finish: Start Here

Not sure which direction to go? Then consider the following before you pick up a brush to paint:

• What mood do you want to create in the room?
• What’s your preferred colour palette?
• Do you want a unified colour scheme throughout the space or a statement feature wall?
• Are you drawn to flat, smooth finishes, or do you prefer something with texture and dimension?

Most special paint effects work best when applied to a single feature wall. It can be your living room focal point, a bedroom headboard wall, or an entrance foyer. Going all-in on four walls is an overkill that can overwhelm any interior space.

Special Paint Techniques Worth Knowing

1. Wall Antiquing

Difficulty: Beginner to Intermediate.

DIY-friendly: Yes.

Wall antiquing creates the illusion of aged, worn plaster that’s streaky, mottled, chipped, or softly textured.

It suits eclectic interiors where the old and new work comfortably together. It works particularly well as a feature wall finish.

The basic application involves painting a thin, translucent film of colour over a light neutral base. Pigments from brown earth-tone palettes like raw umber and burnt umber give the most convincing aged effect. A second method involves using a smooth glaze applied with a large brush, followed by stippling random areas with a coarse brush (or spray gun) while the glaze is still wet.

Materials required:

• Two or three shades of water-based flat-finish paint (a few shades apart from each other. More contrast creates a more mottled effect)
• Paint rollers
• Brushes
• Paint trays
• A large sea sponge
• Rubber gloves
• Drop cloth
• Painters tape
• How to apply:
• Tape off baseboards, trims, mouldings, and electrical outlets.
• Protect your floor with drop cloths.
• Practice on a spare piece of drywall or board first.

Apply the lightest colour first with a roller. It doesn’t need to be perfect. Use an angled brush for edges and corners. Once it’s dry, apply the mid-tone in uneven vertical strokes using a coarser brush or sponge. Once that is dry, dab the darkest shade irregularly on the surface with the sea sponge.

*Tips:

1. Work in up-and-down strokes and dabs.
2. For a more weathered look, repeat the process left-to-right and let more of the base coat show through.
3. Glazing each coat before applying the next one creates translucency and builds depth.
4. Keep your colour choices on the lighter side for your first attempt (it’s easier to add depth than to pull it back).

2. Wall Stamping

Difficulty: Beginner

DIY-friendly: Yes

Wall stamping is a stylish and more affordable alternative to wallpaper. It involves pressing shaped foam stamps loaded with paint onto your wall in repeated or random patterns. The result can look modern and abstract, or traditional and classic, depending entirely on the shapes and colours you choose.

Simple, repeatable geometric shapes such as squares, diamonds, circles, and hexagons are the easiest to work with. You can either cut your own from craft foam using a straight edge or buy pre-made pattern templates.

What you need:

• Coordinating acrylic paints up to four colours (anything more than four will look chaotic)
• Clear acrylic glaze.
• 3/8-inch-thick craft foam (roughly 8” x 10” pieces)
• A straight edge
• Scissors (or a utility knife)
• Plastic plates (one for each colour)
• Sponge brushes
• A level
• Latex gloves
• Paper towels

How to apply (Plan your pattern before you begin):

For a grid design, lightly pencil your grid lines onto the wall using a level and straight edge.

• Cut your shapes cleanly.
• Pour roughly 3 tablespoons of paint onto each plate, add a tablespoon of mixing glaze, and combine with a sponge brush.
• Brush the mixture onto one face of each foam shape, with all strokes running in the same direction.
• Press each stamp firmly onto the wall, ensuring full contact across the surface.
• Mop up any excess paint off the foam with a damp paper towel between applications.

Tips:

1. Draw light guidelines every 30–45 cm on the wall to keep your grid consistent.
2. Practice on a piece of poster board before moving to the wall.
3. For a more abstract effect, apply different shapes in a deliberate but freeform arrangement. Overlapping and layering will add visual interest.

3. Metal Leaf (Gilding)

Difficulty: Advanced

DIY-friendly: With care

Gilding is the application of ultra-thin sheets of metal leaf, gold, silver, copper, bronze, or aluminium, to a wall surface. The result is a luminous, regal, and genuinely breathtaking finish, especially in candlelight. A gilded feature wall needs no further decoration because it is the decoration.

Gilding is one of the most impressive wall finishes that’s not much harder to apply than wallpaper. But gold leaf is far more delicate, and the process is unforgiving of shortcuts. If you’re not confident about trying this out, it’s best left to a professional.

What you need:

• Tack cloth
• Shop cloth
• 120-grit sandpaper
• Drywall filler
• Craft sticks
• Painter’s tape
• A water-based primer
• An extendable roller
• A short-nap roller
• Squirrel mop gilding brush
• Eggshell latex paint
• Metal leaf adhesive (water-based is best for DIY)
• A water-based varnish.

How to apply:

• Wash the wall gently with diluted washing-up liquid and water.
• Allow it to dry completely.
• Sand down any uneven areas and old paint bumps, then wipe with a tack cloth.
• Fill cracks with drywall filler. Once it’s dry, sand-smooth it and wipe clean.
• Tape off ceiling edges, trims, and baseboards.
• Apply two coats of water-based primer with at least 4 hours’ drying time between coats (6 hours if conditions are damp or humid).
• Apply two coats of eggshell latex paint. Allow the second coat to dry overnight.
• The following day, begin at one end of the wall at the ceiling line. Press a strip of metal leaf onto the surface and go over the paper backing with the squirrel mop brush to eliminate air bubbles. Ensure it sticks.
• Peel off the backing and brush it gently to allow it to flatten. Continue the process strip by strip, until the entire wall is covered. Seal with water-based varnish applied with the short-nap roller and leave overnight to dry well.

*Tips:

1. Water-based adhesive is the better choice for DIY as it dries more slowly and gives you time to work carefully.
2. If you opt for gold leaf adhesive, work quickly in long strips from ceiling to baseboard. Never apply metal leaf in an unventilated room.
3. Varnish is non-negotiable because it significantly protects the finish and extends its lifespan.

4. Faux Marble

Difficulty: Intermediate

DIY-friendly: Yes, but with practice.

Real marble is not only expensive, but it is also heavy and permanent. Faux marble paint gives you a remarkably convincing version of it at a fraction of the cost, and you can tailor the look to any marble variety of your choice.

The easiest starting point (and the most popular) is classic white marble with grey and black veining.

Faux marble adds texture, depth, and an unmistakably high-end quality to a room. It immediately transforms a feature wall into a genuine focal point for the room.

What you need:

• Two shades of latex paint (lighter and darker, with the darker shade acting as a base coat)
• 3/8-inch paint rollers
• Roller trays
• A large sea sponge
• A large feather
• Polyacrylic gloss topcoat
• Foam plate
• Shop cloths
• Painter’s tape
• A paint stir stick
• Drop cloths
• Joint filler
• A putty knife
• Hand sander
• Fine-grit sandpaper

For a subtle veining finish, choose colours two or three shades apart on the same colour chart and for a bold, dramatic veining, choose colours from different colour strips entirely.

How to apply:

First, protect your floor with drop cloths and tape all trims, mouldings, and baseboards.

• Repair any cracks or holes with joint compound filler and sand flush once dry.
• Apply the base coat with a roller and allow it to dry.
• Apply a second coat for a smooth, even base and allow it to dry.
• Using the feather dipped in your second colour, run random vein lines across the wall surface. Repeat the process until you are satisfied with the vein coverage.
• Allow to dry.
• Mix equal parts of the base coat paint and polyacrylic gloss on a foam plate. Dip a damp sea sponge into the mixture and dab lightly over the vein marks.
• Allow this to dry for ten minutes.
• Roll a dry cloth into a ball and lightly blot the entire surface to blend the colours.
• Leave for one hour.
• You can add additional veining if desired, but allow two more hours of drying time.
• Apply the polyacrylic satin topcoat with a roller using long vertical strokes and allow it to dry for two hours. 
• Using a hand sander with fine-grit sandpaper, buff the wall in gentle circular motions to reduce streaking. 
• Wipe away sanding residue and repeat for a total of three topcoats. 
• Allow the final coat to dry for approximately three hours.

*Tips:

1. Always wear a sanding mask when buffing the topcoat.
2. Practice on a sample board before touching the wall.
3. Use the darker paint as a base for subtler, softer veining.
4. Use the lighter paint as a base for bolder, more dramatic veining.

When to Call a Professional

Special paint effects are achievable as DIY projects, but the wall condition is the most important thing of all. No technique will look good when the surfaces are poorly prepared. If your walls are heavily textured, wallpapered, or have been repainted many times without stripping, you may face significant preparation work before any decorative finish can be applied.

Hire a professional if:

• Your walls need extensive repair before painting.
• You want gilding or metal leaf on a large surface area.
• You are attempting a technique for the first time on a prominent feature wall.
• You want a guaranteed result rather than a learning experience.

Hiring a decorator is less expensive than most people assume. What drives the cost up are the products and finishes chosen, and not the labour costs.

 

The Difference Between an Awesome Room and a Bland One

The difference between a forgettable room and one people talk about is often just one wall. Special paint effects, whether the warmth of antiquing, the precision of stamping, the drama of gilding, or the sophistication of faux marble, are within reach of most homeowners. With patience, a little preparation, and the right tools, an awesome, inviting room can be created.

Remember this: choose colours that complement both the ceiling and the entire space. Since there is no single right answer on how best to choose, make your gut instinct a legitimate tool. And when in doubt, start with a feature wall. One wall done brilliantly beats four walls done the typical way.

Browse more posts in Design Concepts for more painting and decorating ideas.

Browse more posts in Home Improvement for more home improvement ideas.

(Article originally published at hubpages.com on 0/09/10)

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The 3-Colour Rule Designers Use to Prevent Visual Chaos (With Free Colour Palette Tool)

If your room feels busy, mismatched, or slightly chaotic, the problem may not be your furniture. It may be your choice of colours. Learning how to decorate with only three colours can instantly create a cohesive, balanced space.

Too many colours can hurt the eyes; competing for attention, while too few can make the space feel flat and lifeless. But three colours, only? Yes, because three creates a perfect balance.

Have you ever been in a fix and had to search for:

• How to choose a colour palette for a room.
• How many colours should be in a room?
• How to make my room decor look cohesive and balanced.
• How to successfully decorate a room with just a few colours.

If you have, or have searched for, similar home improvement queries, you are not alone. Many homeowners have also asked the same questions. This guide will walk you through a simple colour palette that works in any room.

Why the 3-Colour Rule Works

Using only three colours helps your room feel organised and balanced. It also shows:

Clarity: The space feels clean and easy to understand. Your eye isn’t overwhelmed by too many competing tones.

Visual rhythm: When colours repeat in different areas, your eye moves smoothly around the room instead of jumping from one random colour to another.

Cohesion: Everything feels nicely connected with the furniture, decor, and textiles, and they all look like they belong together.

Intentional design: The room looks planned. Even simple spaces feel more polished when the colour palette is controlled.

With only three dominant colours, your room will not look like it’s randomly decorated. It will look and feel perfectly planned.

Step 1: Choose Your Base Colour (60%)

Your base colour is the foundation of your colour scheme and should cover roughly 60% of the room. It usually appears in the following places:

• Walls
• Large furniture pieces
• Area rugs
• Floor finish

The popular choice for base colours includes:

• Warm white
• Soft beige
• Light grey
• Taupe
• Soft greige (a combination of beige and grey)

The base colour sets the mood and should feel calm and neutral enough to support the other two colours. If your base colour is too bold, the room may feel overwhelming.

Step 2: Select Your Secondary Colour (30%)

Your secondary colour supports the base and adds personality. It usually appears in:

• Upholstery
• Curtains
• Accent chairs
• Larger decor pieces

For example, if your base is warm beige, your secondary might be:

• Soft brown
• Muted sage
• Charcoal
• Dusty blue

The colour should contrast slightly with your base, but not compete with it. The base and secondary should feel like they belong in the same family (warm with warm, cool with cool).

Step 3: Add One Accent Colour (10%)

Your accent colour may be the smallest percentage, but it must have the biggest impact. The pieces best suited for accent colours are:

• Cushions
• Artwork
• Vases
• Lamps
• Books
• Small decor pieces

A real-life colour scheme example should be as follows:

• Base: Warm white
• Secondary: Soft brown
• Accent: Muted blue

The key rule:

Repeat your accent colour at least three times in different parts of the room. Repetition makes it feel intentional, and not just random.

Free Room Colour Palette Tool

Find your colour palette with the free tool below. Use it to find your personalised three-colour scheme for your room/space, in under sixty seconds.

Find Your Room Colour Palette

Answer four quick questions to get your personalised 3-colour scheme.

Which room are you decorating?

How much natural light does the room get?

What feeling do you want the room to have?

How big is the room?

---

Where to use each colour

Your saved palettes

How Do You Know If Your Room Has Too Many Colours?

You definitely have a colour riot in your room if:

• Every cushion is a different colour.
• Art introduces new tones that don’t repeat.
• Decor was bought individually, without a palette plan.
• Your eyes don’t know where to rest.

A cohesive room allows your eyes to move smoothly around the room.

Real Example of a Living Room Reset Using Only 3 Colours

Imagine a small living room with:

• A grey sofa
• Mustard cushions
• Blue throws
• Green plant pots
• Pink artwork
• A brown coffee table
• A beige area rug

Individually, they may be beautiful features, but together, they are competing with each other for attention. Now apply the 3-colour rule:

Base: Warm beige (walls and area rug).
Secondary: Soft brown (coffee table and chair).
Accent: Muted blue (cushions, artwork, and small decor items).

When you remove the mustard cushions and pink artwork:

• The room will feel calmer.
• The eye moves smoothly.
• Everything connects together.

Note that, although nothing expensive was added or changed, the colour structure improved.

Warm vs Cool Hues: Why Undertones Matter

One common mistake among decorating homeowners is mixing warm and cool tones unintentionally. Warm tones include:

• Cream
• Beige
• Warm wood
• Terracotta

Cool tones include:

• Blue-grey
• Crisp white
• Charcoal
• True grey

If your base is warm beige and your secondary is cool blue-grey, the room may feel slightly off. So, before choosing your three colours, first check the undertones. When there is consistency, then there is harmony.

What About Patterns?

You can absolutely use patterns as long as they include at least one of your three chosen colours. For example, a patterned cushion that contains beige, brown, and blue fits perfectly into the colour palette. Patterns should reinforce your colour choices, not introduce new dominant tones.

Can You Use More Than Three Colours?

Yes, you can, but they must be carefully introduced. You can include:

• Wood tones
• Greenery
• Metallics

These colours often act as neutrals, but if bold colours start exceeding three dominant hues, the room may lose clarity. When in doubt, reduce first and add later.

A Quick 5-Minute Colour Audit

Stand in your room and list the visible dominant colours. Ask yourself if:

• You see more than three strong tones.
• One colour dominates too much.
• The accent colour is repeated at least three times.
• Your chosen colours share similar undertones.

If the answer feels unclear, then your palette likely needs simplifying.

Why This Method Works in Small Spaces

Small rooms (especially) benefit from limited colour palettes. Too many colours, small spaces will feel cluttered, but with three, and in the right ratio, you will achieve visual continuity, beautiful calmness, and a more spacious look.

So, if you find that your small living room looks/feels busy, simplify your palette to instantly improve it.

Would You Like Some Help Choosing Your 3-Colour Palette?

If you would like a tool that will help you:

• Identify a base colour.
• Select a balanced secondary colour.
• Choose and repeat your accent colour with intention.

Or maybe audit your existing room decor, then: ↑ Try the free Room Colour Palette tool above

Final Thoughts

Decorating with three colours is not restrictive, but it’s more stylish and visually freeing. When your palette is clear and chosen with intent, then shopping for furnishings becomes easier, styling becomes simpler, and the rooms feel more finished, faster.

Structure creates calm, and calm is what you need to make your home feel comforting and aesthetically appealing.

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How to Develop an Interior Design Concept – 5 Basic Principles to Follow

Interior Design FAQ: Real Answers to the Questions Homeowners Usually Ask

Hiring an interior designer can be pricey. Depending on the project, charges can run into thousands of dollars, but that doesn't mean beautiful designs are only for the wealthy.

Not every interior design task needs a professional. Many jobs are simple enough to do yourself, even if you're not design-savvy. You don't need any training to give a room a smart upgrade or apply a designer's trick or two.

If you want to give a room a makeover, perhaps a section of a room, or even your whole home, the questions and answers below will help. Some tasks, like electrical or plumbing work, do need a licensed tradesperson, but for everything else, you can save money and do it yourself.

Interior Design Questions, Answered

Below are some common interior design questions with simple, straightforward answers.

Q: Before you design a room, what should you consider first?

The theme. A good design starts with a style: country, art deco, Hollywood glam, Asian, feng shui, or minimalist. Once you know your style, choose colours, textures, furniture, and lighting to match it. No clear theme in mind? Mix no more than two, such as modern with a touch of the traditional.

Q: What key elements uplift a room?

Accessories. If you're keeping your furniture but want a fresh look, accessorise. Plants, water features, cushions, throws, framed art, and metal accents all make a room feel elegant without a big spend.

Q: How do you design a small space well?

Use colour. Light, soft paint makes a small room feel bigger, and white works well too. Paint one wall a complementary feature colour. Avoid cheap paint. Don't over-furnish and choose small-scale pieces.

Q: How do you design a large room?

Create zones. Break a big living room into two or three seating areas using small-scale furniture rather than large pieces. For example, one zone for six people, one for four, and one for two.

Q: What's a good way to light a room?

Mix your light sources. Use roughly 70% overhead lighting (pendant, ceiling, recessed) and 30% free-standing (wall sconces, table lamps, floor lamps). Add spotlights for wall art.

Q: How do you create a standout feature in a room?

Build a feature wall. Use colour, texture, or a mirror on the main wall or the one you face on entry. Large artwork, decorative stone, wallpaper, or wall panels all work.

Q: How do I choose the right furniture?

Get the scale right. Measure the room first and sketch it out if you can. Don't put oversized furniture in a small room or small pieces in a big one, and don't over-furnish.

Q: How can I use dead space, alcoves, and corners?

Add shelving. Wall-mounted shelves free up floor space and work well in small flats. Use them for books, decorations, and collections in niches and between windows.

Q: What countertop material works for a kitchen upgrade?

Stone, wood, or man-made materials. Granite and quartz cost more but last a very long time. Marble and limestone stain easily. Wood is affordable, but it dents and scratches easily. Stainless steel is water- and heat-resistant.

Q: What is green interior design?

Eco-friendly design. It focuses on furniture and furnishings free from pollutants, such as organic upholstery, natural wood like walnut, oak, and teak, and rugs made from jute, wool, or cotton.

Q: Can I turn a balcony or porch into a garden?

Yes. Use vertical plant walls, stacked planters, and hanging baskets. Add faux grass flooring and a garden stool if space allows.

Q: How much does an interior designer cost?

A single room typically costs between $2,000 (£1,500) and $15,000 (£12,000), including design fees and furnishings. Design fees alone usually range from $ 1,000 (£800) to $5,000 (£4,000) per room. Most designers charge $100 to $350 (£80 to £250) an hour, or a flat project fee. Whole-home projects generally start at around $10,000 (£8,000) and can run well into six figures for large or luxury homes.

Q: Should I choose paint or furniture first?

Furniture first. Pick your large pieces, fabrics, and rugs, then match your paint colour to them. It's far easier to colour-match paint to a fabric than the other way round. Treat paint as the last, most flexible layer.

Q: What size rug do I need for a living room?

Go big enough that at least the front legs of your sofa and chairs sit on it. Most living rooms need an 8x10ft or 9x12ft rug. Leave 15cm to 20cm between the rug edge and the wall so the room doesn't feel boxed in.

Q: What size rug do I need under the dining table?

Add at least 60cm beyond the table on every side. This keeps chairs on the rug, even when pulled out. A 6-seat table usually needs an 8x10ft rug; an 8-seat table needs a 9x12ft rug.

Q: What is the 60-30-10 rule in interior design?

A colour formula. Use one dominant colour for 60% of the room (walls, large furniture), a secondary colour for 30% (curtains, accent chairs), and an accent colour for the final 10% (cushions, art, accessories). It keeps a room balanced instead of chaotic.

Q: How do I find my personal design style?

Save images of rooms you love and rooms you dislike. Don't overthink it, just trust your gut reaction. Patterns will emerge fast; you'll notice recurring colours, shapes, or moods that point to your actual style, not just what's trending.

Q: How much space should I leave for walking around furniture?

Leave at least 75 to 90cm for main walkways, and 45cm around furniture for everyday movement. Coffee tables should sit 35cm to 45cm from the sofa, close enough to reach and far enough to walk past.

Q: Do I need a rug pad?

Yes, on hard flooring. A rug pad stops slipping, protects the floor, and helps the rug lie flat instead of curling at the edges. It also extends the rug's life by reducing friction underneath it.

Q: What's the difference between an interior designer and an interior decorator?

An interior designer works on the structure of a space: layout, floor plans, and sometimes building work, alongside a design or architecture qualification. A decorator focuses on the finished look: colour, furniture, and styling, without structural training.

Q: How long should my curtains be?

Three options: floating (just under an inch above the floor), kissing (barely touching), or puddling (2 to 4 inches pooling on the floor). Kissing suits most living rooms and bedrooms. Floating is the practical choice for kitchens and high-traffic rooms. For a taller-looking room, hang the pole close to the ceiling rather than right above the window frame.

Q: Can I mix metal finishes in one room?

Yes, and most designers recommend it. Pick one dominant metal (roughly 70-80% of fixtures) and one accent metal for contrast, such as brushed brass with matte black, or chrome with bronze. Stick to two, occasionally three, finishes per room, and repeat each one at least twice so it looks deliberate rather than accidental.

Q: What size sofa do I need for my living room?

Aim for a sofa that fills about two-thirds of the wall it sits against. Leave at least 75 to 90cm of clearance around it for walking space, and 45cm between the sofa and coffee table. Standard sofas run 180 to 245cm long, so measure the wall you are placing it against before you shop.

Q: How high should I hang artwork?

Centre the artwork 145 to 150cm from the floor, roughly at eye level. Above a sofa or console table, leave 15 to 20cm between the top of the furniture and the bottom of the frame. When hanging several frames together as a cluster, don’t measure each frame individually to 145cm- 150cm. Instead, treat the outer edges of the whole arrangement as if they were one big frame. Find the vertical centre point of that overall shape and put that centre point at the 145cm - 150cm.

Q: Which paint finish should I use in which room?

Eggshell for living rooms, bedrooms, and hallways: low sheen, forgiving wall imperfections, wipes clean. Satin or semi-gloss for kitchens and bathrooms: better resistance to moisture and grease. Matte for low-traffic, formal rooms and ceilings, since it hides flaws but marks easily. Gloss for trim, doors, and cabinetry only.

 

What to Consider When Designing a Room

1. Lighting affects more than visibility. It changes how walls, ceilings, and furniture look and feel.
2. Hang artwork at eye level, not too high and not too low.
3. Use ambient lighting to set the mood; you don't need every light on at the same time.
4. In small or awkward spaces, decorative mirrors create the illusion of a larger room.
5. Shop smart. Flea markets, estate sales, and garage sales are where designers find their most unique pieces.

 

Work at Your Own Pace and Budget

We live in a DIY culture. If you'd rather be your own designer, you can work at your own pace, save money, and hire help only for tasks that you can't do yourself. No lump sum to spend? Do it in phases.

For more inspiration, check Pinterest and look for e-books and online resources that even professional Interior designers check out to stay sharp and current.

(Article originally published by the author at Hubpages.com on 01/28/20)

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Before You Design Interior Spaces, Do This Important Thing First

Before interior designers begin to create a concept and prepare preliminary drawings, they must first decide on a theme. The professionals know a good design starts with a theme. 

The style of choice can range from minimalist to elegant country, eclectic, contemporary, ethnic, Art Deco, traditional, feng shui, etc. Once this is ascertained, the interior design process can begin.

A stylish theme for a living area. (Image used under license from 123rf.com)

They then begin the technical aspect: sketch floor plans, elevations, furniture placements and 3D representations. Furnishing, finishes, and other elements are noted.

But if you plan to upgrade a space or give your interior a makeover, employing the services of a professional interior designer is pricey and in many instances, unnecessary. Why? Because you can do a lot of the tasks required, yourself. You don’t need professional skills to apply clever and transforming interior design tricks.

Choosing a Theme

You should pick a theme with a lot of thought. But the good thing? There are no rigid rules concerning choices.

1. Do you live alone or live with a partner?
2. Do you have young kids still scampering around?
3. Is your home full of occupants?
4. Are you ready to ensure that you can maintain the aesthetics of the style?

If you have a sense of designing and decorating, then, go ahead and create a unique theme; a mix of the old and new works great. Combine no more than two themes (except for eclectic styling). Anything above that will be an overkill. But make one more dominant over the other. 

For example, a dominant modern theme with splashes of vintage-inspired elements will give a striking look. You'll love the nobody-else-has-this-style feel.

Plan to use elements that'll enhance your theme. Think finishes (floor, walls, and ceiling), colour scheme, artwork, textiles, patterns, and textures. There are also window treatments, lighting, and decor items that translate the theme perfectly.

Hire an Interior Designer or DIY?

After you've decided on a theme and (importantly) your colour scheme, you can begin your upgrade/makeover project. A good thing, we now live in a DIY era, so you can be your own interior designer and save tons of money.

Of course, there are certain tasks you cannot implement without contractors. For instance, if your upgrade requires some wiring, you need a licensed electrician. And if it involves a kitchen upgrade, you'll need a licensed plumber. You may hire one from your local home improvement store. 

Work at your own pace. Know what you can do and hire someone to do what you can’t. And if you don’t have that lump sum of money available, you can do your interior design work in phases.

7 Timeless Themes for Your Home (Video)

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Interior Design Concept of Double-Height Interior Spaces: Bedrooms Overlooking Living Areas

One of the remarkable features of small interior spaces with double-volume ceilings is their visual spaciousness and airy feeling. You can also get two rooms sharing the same floor space (one above the other), something you will not find with the typical; two separate rooms on the same floor level.

Studio apartment with bedroom area overlooking the living room. Image used under license from 123rf.com

This retro-style studio apartment gives an impression of largeness and airiness, with a connecting feel between the living and sleeping areas. A striking feature of this double-volume room is the elevated bedroom with its modest metal handrailing, painted brick walls, and flooring framed with wide flange H-beams. The bedroom overlooking the living room is a perfect example of how to combine functionality and aesthetics in contemporary interior design.

This interior design concept is ideal for anyone on a budget looking for a small space exuding style and comfort.

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The Minimalist Interior Design Theme

This modern interior design idea is aesthetically pleasing, calming, and absolutely clutter-free. You can call it the no-dramatic-dramatic look. With its soft colours of shades of pink with a bit of white, this is the dream look for those inclined towards minimalist style interiors.

Minimalist interior design idea. Image used under license from 123rf.com

Indoor House Plants (Artificial and Natural)

Adding flora to interior spaces will turn your living room into a space infused with nature. Greenery adds warmth to home interiors, bringing in the outdoors in many dramatic ways. Additionally, indoor house plants, whether they are natural or artificial, are affordable, make great conversational pieces, and create a clean and fresh ambience.  

Beautiful splashes of green hues add warmth to this space.

Stylish Ethnic Interior Design Idea

Ethnic interior themes are mainly dictated by the addition of urban-style decor items and accessories. Majorly based on the traditions of different cultural groups, it is also referred to as tribal designs. This image of a contemporary interior style is decorated with African-style decor - simple furniture, framed wall art, natural wool rug, woven baskets, textured pillows with bold patterns, and other tribal artefacts.

Simple and stylish modern interior design.

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